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The Road to Urique.

When you are swimming in the cool aquamarine currents of the Urique River in the depths of the Copper Canyon, with your Tarahumara guide resting in the shade, your horse Lucero (Headlamp), and faithful dog Viajero (Traveller) loyally looking on - well -
You just might ask yourself one question - Are you feeling lucky today?
Si! Hombre!.
I would have to put this somewhere in the top five genuinely bone-riveting experiences of my life in Mexico.
And not so hard to do if you actually get off the Copper Canyon Train and take some modest six steps beyond the given track of your life.
Here's the deal: Get off the train at Bahuichivo train station. The pastoral town of Cerocahui is located at the edge of Urique Canyon — the deepest canyon in the system — in a valley lost in time. The town is about 8 miles from the Bahuichivo train station where the Chihuahua al Pacifico stops daily.

If you call Sr. Alberto he will pick you up at the station.
  • .A big advantage of using Cerocahui as a base is that the road trip to Urique is about two hours compared to going from Creel to Batopilas which is at least twice as long.
  • A second big advantage for the frugal traveler are the prices you will pay for lodging, food and guides.
CEROCAHUI: This rustic community of about 1000 souls will give you a real flavor of life in the Canyon. A small Jesuit Mission church edges onto a plaza surrounded by a few grocery stores and a restaurant. Riders and Tarahumara wander by, rest in the shade, and breathe in the centuries old quiet. Cerocahui is a communally owned ejido dedicated to forestry, ranching, and farming. Fruit orchards and riverside beauty spots abound. Mining once provided employment but the last local mine, the "Sangre de Cristo", closed in 1963. You will definitely experience local life first-hand. It is not surprising that Frommer’s has recommended this essentially undiscovered town as an excellent base for exploring Canyon country.

Day-trips:
  • Visit "Cerro del Gallego Urique Outlook", which provides the most sweeping and accessible view of the Copper Canyon system.
  • Walk or ride to Huicochi, Cerocahui's Waterfall. "Huicochi" in Tarahumara means "place of many trees."  Depending on the season this magical grove allows for swimming. The pathway presents a great initial opportunity to immerse yourself in Canyon country.
  •  The old "Sangre de Cristo" gold mine is close by. There is an abundance of natural beauty along the way as you climb through pine forest to reach the abandoned mine.
  •  Hike to the overlook of "El Valle del Leon" (the Valley of the Lion). This moderate hike provides magnificent views of the town and valleys.
  •  Visit the 1724 gold and silver mining town of Urique. Tropical fruit, corn, peanuts and coffee abound. See the old kiln, church, cemetery and plaza with spectacular views along the way. Urique is 1,590 feet elevation. This is a great photographic opportunity. Nearby you can also  take a refreshing swim in the Urique River.

 
Contact and Pick up at the Rail Station:
Call Sr. Alberto Lopez at (01)-52-635-456-5275 in Cerocahui to make arrangements. Real cool hombre who coincidentally speaks excellent English.
He will arrange lodging, meals, transport, and specialized photographic, bird-watching, botanical, and geological tours tailored to your needs.
Bueno - if you want to hear coyotes howl - Sr. Alberto can arrange that too.
Prices are very reasonable and you will be given a real insight into life in Tarahumara country.
For Horseback or Hiking Tours with a lifetime local guide ask for Don Juan and Lucero a truly sure-footed caballo. Viajero may or may not join you.

Weblinks:

www.mexperience.com/guide/outdoors/copper_canyon.htm

This is a great site for planning your trip.

www.coppercanyon.org/

Excellent site run by Richard Fisher.

www.planeta.com/ecotravel/mexico/chihuahua/barrancas.html

Another informative eco-friendly site.

Cerocahui

Suggested Reading:

Mexico's Copper Canyon Country ; A Hiking and Backpacking Guide.

John Fayhee

Although a bit dated (1989) contains an excellent introduction to the world of the Tarahumara. Often hilarious in his anecdotes and very sensitive to the local people and enviroment.


History of the Copper Canyon (ISBN:0-9619170-9-1)

Richard Fisher ed.

This beautifully illustrated text reproduces the early ethnographic work of Carl Lumholtz and provides real insight into the customs and way of life of the Tarahumara.